Chocolate Roulade

Chocolate Roulade (May 2013) Adam Dowell - all rights reserved

I am a huge fan of roulades or swiss rolls. They have the perfect balance of a delicious creamy filling with a moist cake.

The fear of cracking the cake open with deep crevasses when rolling it up can intimidate some people to the point that they wont try. I say give it a try. So what if it cracks on your first or second attempt? The point is to give it a try and practice so that you know what works for you. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I know that when something doesn’t work in my kitchen nothing is ever wasted. It all tastes just as delicious.

Views on the correct technique used to roll the cake is polarized and some authors have very strong opinions. Some will gasp at the idea of rolling the cake when it is fresh from the oven and will tell you the cake will most certainly crack. Yet, this method works for me every time.

Roulade
4 eggs
100g plain flour
100g castor sugar
20g cocoa (preferably Dutch)
1 tbs warm water
½ tsp baking powder

Cream Filling
300ml cream
1 vanilla pod
50g castor sugar

Pre heat the oven to 190°C. Line a swiss-roll baking tray with baking paper and keep a small amount of paper overhang to help lift the cake when it is baked.

Whisk the eggs until they have at least tripled in volume and have a very pale colour. With the mixer still whisking, add the castor sugar a tablespoon at a time to ensure that the volume in the eggs is not lost.

Sift the flour, cocoa and baking powder together three times to ensure it is light and airy. Gently fold the dry ingredients and the tablespoon of warm water into the egg mixture until it is just combined.

Use a pallet knife to evenly spread the mixture to the edges of the baking tray and to make sure that the surface is even and smooth.

Bake in the oven for 10-12 minutes.

Remove the cake from the oven and use the paper overhang to lift the cake onto a clean surface. Roll the cake into the classic roulade shape beginning by folding one edge in then slowly and gently continuing along the cake to the other end. Leave it sit rolled up for a about five minutes then very gently unroll the cake into its original shape. The ends of the cake will remain curled up. Leave the cake to cool completely.

Whip the cream with the castor sugar and the seeds scraped from one vanilla pod. Use a pallet knife to spread the cream evenly along the surface of the cake. Try to leave about 2cm at one end so that when the cake is rolled, the excess cream will fill the gap without spilling over the edge.

Place the roulade seam side down. Dust with cocoa and serve.

Madeleines au citron

Madeleines au citron

Recently, I was given an antique French madeleine baking tray. I wish I knew its story, where in France it came from and who cooked with it. It’s marked with years of culinary love and attention and has clearly made many batches over the years. This tray doesn’t sit in the cupboard with the other trays and tins, it sits in my bookcase of cookbooks with a rightful reign of authority.

Madeleines are light delicious buttery sponge cakes that are always baked in a madeleine tray to give them their synonymous scalloped edge and shell-like shape. More often than not they are citrus or vanilla flavoured.

My recipe is based on Ginette Mathiot’s ‘the Art of French Baking’. Ginette was the Nigella Lawson of French home cooking. Writing her first cookbook in the 1930s, she went on to publish volumes of cookbooks that are still used today. Her recipes are simple and accessible which sets her aside from many of her counterparts.

In my recipe, I add lemon glaze to the scalloped edge of the madeleines, but you can dust them with icing sugar if you prefer. You can also replace the lemon zest with orange, lime or you can use vanilla seeds.

125g butter
125g caster sugar
150g plain flour
2 eggs
1 lemon zest
pinch sea salt

Melt the butter and set it aside for 10 minutes to cool.

Whisk the eggs for at least 5 minutes until they triple in volume and are a very pale yellow colour. Continue to whisk on a high setting and add the castor sugar in a slow steady stream. Finally add the lemon zest.

Sift the flour over the egg and slowly drizzle the butter down the side of the bowl and add the sea salt. Fold the mixture through until the batter is smooth.

Cover the bowl with cling film and place it in the fridge for 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Half to three quarters fill the madeleine tins with the batter.

Place the trays in the oven and cook for 8-10 minutes. The cakes should be evenly golden. Remove the madeleines from the oven and the tray and place them on a cake rack to cool.

For the glaze, which is optional, combine the juice of a lemon with about 4 tablespoons of icing sugar until it is smooth. Use a pastry brush to lightly brush the glaze over each scalloped edge.

The Healthiest Chocolate Tart

The Healthiest Chocolate Tart (March 2013) Adam Dowell - all rights reserved

The very thought of making a chocolate tart with avocados and without using dairy products would never have occurred to me until I was watching Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s TV series ‘River Cottage Veg Every Day. On it he showed Laura Coxeter’s Raw Chocolate Ganache Tart. I was absolutely transfixed by the recipe and had to try it to see what it tasted like.

The base is more chewy than crunchy but you could swap it for a biscuit base if that’s what you’re looking for. But make no mistake, this is a rich desert and a small piece will go a long way. Which is what makes this tart so interesting. Let me reassure you, this is decadence without the guilt. It is smooth, velvety and indulgent. And I for one did not think it was possible. This chocolate tart is most certainly worth a go and I promise it is an excellent talking point.

Making this tart is akin to kitchen wizardry. Watching the seemingly incongruous ingredients come together is so exciting.

This is my version made with Macadamia nuts and I have removed the coconut oil and coconut sugar that appears in the original.

250g macadamia nuts
300g dates, pitted*
2 tsp sea salt
4 ripe/soft avocados
200g pure cocoa powder
1 vanilla bean, seeds only
300g brown sugar
1 tsp sea salt

For the base, place the macadamia nuts, pitted dates and sea salt in to a food processor and blitz for several minutes until it forms a ball.

Press the mixture in to a tart or flan tin of your choice and place it in the freezer until later.

In the food processor, blitz together the avocados, cocoa, brown sugar, vanilla seeds and sea salt Make sure the mixture is even and smooth.

Pour the mixture on top of the macadamia and date base. Smooth the surface and return it to the freezer for a least 6 hours.

You made need a kitchen blow-torch to release it from the tin. Slice in to small wedges and serve.

* Occasionally there is an odd dated that will have it’s pip inside. Rather than let the blade of the food process find it, potentially ruining the mixture, I chopped all the dates in half for my only assurance. Sadly, no matter the brand, there is always one on the batch.

Shortbread

Shortbread (Jan 2013) Adam Dowell - All rights reserved

There really is nothing better than homemade shortbread and it’s astonishingly better than store-bought, no matter the brand. As much as I love a chocolate biscuit, a piece of crumbly buttery shortbread wins hands-down each time. Perhaps it’s my love of butter.

It is surprisingly easy and fast to make. I promise you can have it from pantry to a cooling rack in 30 minutes and there is not a lot to it. Given there are only a few ingredients; it does pay to buy good quality butter.

The sprinkling of caster sugar on top of the shortbread is where you can add flavour. I use a homemade vanilla sugar but you can use any flavoured sugar, such as cinnamon or lavender. It’s remarkably easy to make your own vanilla sugar. I have a large jar of caster sugar with a few vanilla beans spiked through and left to infuse. I top the jar up with more sugar when it starts to deplete and occasionally add another vanilla bean. I don’t remove the previous beans, instead I leave them to continue adding the depth to the sugar.

400g plain flour
275g unsalted or salt reduced butter, chilled and diced into cubes
¼ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. sea salt
2 tbsp. caster sugar, plain or flavour infused

Line a 30cm x 20cm baking tray with grease proof or baking paper. Preheat the over to 180°C

Blitz the plain flour, butter, baking powder and sea salt until you have course breadcrumb consistency. Tip the crumbs into the prepared baking tin and press down into the edges and corners. Use a small rolling pin or an even edged glass jar to roll across the top to ensure a flat, even surface and to ensure the crumb is pressed down firm.

Use a sharp knife to very lightly score the surface into even shaped pieces, such as 2cm by 5cm fingers. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes, or until it there is a very light golden colour.

Remove the tray from the oven. While it is still hot, use a sharp knife to cut along the scores made earlier. Sprinkle with the caster sugar and leave the shortbread to cool completely in the tray.

When it has cooled completely, remove the shortbread from the tray. Be gentle when removing it, because it will be brittle and crumbly, just the way good shortbread should be.

Lindor Chocolate Tarts

Lindor Chocolate Tarts (Jan 2013) Adam Dowell - All rights reserved

Without reservation or question, ‘Lindt’ is my absolute favourite chocolate. And when I was eating with a friend of mine recently, we were served a ‘Lindt’ Chocolate Tart which had me clapping and wanting more. So I began thinking of making my own.

I thought about using a block of ‘Lindt’ and adding yummy ingredients like butter and cream, and of course, pouring it into a short crust pastry shell. But my thoughts kept returning to the taste and texture of the individual ‘Lindt Lindor’ balls. I wanted a small tartlet that reminded me of the small, but meltingly delicious ball. With that thought, it seemed pretty obvious to me, just melt the ball into the pastry shell. And to help reinforce the idea of the chocolate ball, I dusted each one with a little splash of red edible glitter.

250g plain flour
150g butter, chilled
1 egg, chilled
2 tbsn castor sugar
2 tsp milk, chilled
1 tsp sea salt
24 milk chocolate ‘Lindt Lindor Balls’, unwrapped
Red edible glitter (optional)

Blitz the plain flour, butter, egg, castor sugar, milk and sea salt in a food processor until it looks like coarse breadcrumbs. Pour the pastry onto a cold, clean work surface. Bring the pastry together into a solid ball without kneading. Put the pastry in a clean bowl covered with cling wrap and place in in the fridge for at least an hour.

Preheat the oven to 180°C

Roll the pastry out on a clean work surface until it is approximately 0.25-0.5cm thick. Use a round cutter (for example, a 68mm) to cut 24 circles to line a small muffin tin, approximately 3cm deep and 5cm diameter. Line each muffin cup with a circle of pasty.

Bake the pastry shells for 10 minutes. Remove the shells from the oven and add one unwrapped ‘Lindt Lindor’ ball into each shell and return them to the oven for 8 minutes.

Remove the shells from the oven and leave them to cool completely. Remove the tarts from the tray and dust with a small amount of red glitter.

Fig and Prune Tart

Fig and Prune Tart (Dec 2012) Adam Dowell - All rights reserved

Using sherry soaked fruit, this tart is definitely not for children. The cooking times are not long or intense enough to burn off the alcohol, so each mouthful tends to give a little kick.

I’ve previously written about the sherry soaked fruit that has become a backbone in my Christmas fare. This year, I modified the fruit mix by using dried figs and prunes. I added the chopped fruit to the imbued fruit from last year and topped up the jar with enough sherry to cover the fruit. If you do this, leave it to soak for as long as you can, preferably for a year, but a month will do.

If you’ve left soaking the fruit too late, don’t fret. You can place your chopped dried fruit into a saucepan and just cover with enough sherry. Bring the pot to a very gentle simmer and leave it to slowly bubble away until the fruit has swollen and the bulk of the sherry has evaporated. Leave it to cool and you’re done.

To bring a bit more Christmas cheer to the tart, I’ve added freshly ground hazelnut meal and the zest of an orange. The pastry is very short, but I like the crumbly contrast with the rich sweet fruit.

250g plain flour
150g butter, chilled
80g hazelnut meal
1 egg, chilled
1 tbsp castor sugar
zest of one orange
pinch sea salt
4 cups sherry soaked figs and prunes

Blitz all the ingredients except the fruit, in a food processor until it starts to form a small ball. Tip the pastry onto a cold, clean work surface. Bring the pastry together into a solid ball without kneading. Put the smooth ball in a clean bowl covered with cling wrap and place in in the fridge for at least an hour. Don’t over work the pastry – be quick and gentle – it will give a more crumbly and finer texture.

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Wipe the flan tin with a small amount of vegetable oil.

Roll the pastry out on a clean work surface until it is approximately 0.25-0.5cm thick. Line the flan tin (12 x 36cm) with the pastry and press it into the corners and edges with clean fingers or a spoon. Cover the pastry with baking paper and blind bake with baking beads for about 15 minutes. Remove the beads and baking paper and bake for a further 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven, but leave it in the tin.

Place the soaked fruit into a sieve and let the excess juice drain away. (I return the excess liquid back to the remaining jar of fruit for next year’s fruit – it helps to intensify the flavours)

Spoon the fruit in to the tart shell and gently press it down into the corners and edges. Bake the tart for 20 minutes. Allow it to cool before removing from the tin.

Christmas Gingerbread

Christmas GIngerbread (Dec 2012) Adam Dowell - All rights reserved

For me at Christmas, some foods are essential; like Christmas pudding, mince tarts, and gingerbread and I think this cake is a great addition to Christmas fare. You can cut it into small squares to serve as a treat or you can serve larger squares or slices with vanilla ice cream for a merry dessert.

In this recipe, I have stepped the spices up a notch because I think there is little point including them if you can’t taste them, and they have some steep competition from the dense iron rich treacle and Guinness. By all means, play around with the spices to suit your preferences. I have seen grated fresh ginger in some versions of gingerbread, so feel free to add a teaspoon or two. I have not added fresh ginger in to this recipe because Southern hemisphere Christmas’ are already searingly hot and I see no point in taking it beyond necessary.

The best part of this recipe is that it is melt and mix which means it’s easy to prepare, in and out of the over in the hour and fills the house with a Christmas spiced scent.

160g unsalted butter
350g treacle
150g brown sugar
250ml cream
2 eggs
250ml Guinness
350g plain flour
2tsp baking powder
1 tbls ground ginger
2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp ground allspice
½ tsp ground clove
½ tsp nutmeg

Lightly grease a 20x30cm tin with vegetable oil and pre heat the oven to 170°C.

Gently melt the butter together with the Guinness, treacle, brown sugar and spices in a medium saucepan over a low heat. Whisk the warmed ingredients until they are smooth and well combined.

In a separate bowl, beat the eggs into the cream until it is smooth.

In a large mixing bowl, add the sifted plain flour and baking powder together. Whisk the black treacle mixture into the flour ensuring there are no lumps. Then whisk in the creamy egg mixture.

When the mixture is smooth and even, pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake in the oven for 45-60 minutes. Use a skewer to test the cake, it should be clean. Try not to over bake the cake because the texture should be dense and moist.

Cool the cake on a rake and slice into servings of your desire. Dust with icing sugar and serve.

Lemon Meringue Tart

Lemon meringue must surely be in the top 10 favourite desserts of all time, certainly for the comforting and home baked variety. This version is more like a tart than a pie. The meringue is not piled high into a towering peak; rather it is smoothed out across the top at the level of the pastry shell.

Cooking lemon curd without curdling or splitting can be a bit tricky, so I find cooking it low and slow works best. Letting the curd set in the fridge also helps give a smooth silky texture. I have used recipes that bake the curd at high temperatures, but I have found there is a very thin line between baked well and curdled mess.

I like to use an Italian meringue. Adding the hot sugar syrup cooks the meringue and gives a smooth sweet texture that compliments the sharpness of the lemon curd. You can use other meringues if you desire.

If you don’t have a blowtorch, use the grill. Just be careful and never leave it alone. The sugar in the meringue will caramelise very quickly. If you a looking for a good blowtorch to use in the kitchen, go to the local hardware store, they are significantly cheaper than most home or kitchenware stores.

Pastry
250g plain flour
150g butter, chilled
1 egg, chilled
1 tbs milk, chilled
Salt, 
pinch
1 tsp castor sugar
1 egg beaten (for the egg wash after blind baking)

Lemon Curd
8 eggs
400ml cream
300g castor sugar
100ml lemon juice
Zest three lemons

Italian Meringue
3 egg whites
150g castor sugar
4 tbs water

To make the pastry, blitz all the ingredients in a food processor until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Pour the pastry crumbs onto a cold, clean work surface and bring it together into a solid ball without kneading. Place the dough in a clean bowl covered with cling wrap and place it in the fridge for at least an hour.

Lightly grease the inside of 20cm x 5cm pastry ring with some extra butter and place it on a silicon sheet and baking tray. Roll the dough out on a clean work surface until it is approximately 0.25-0.5cm thick. Gently line the ring with the pastry and press it into the edges. Leave any overhanging pastry in place. Place the tart shell in the fridge for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180°C and blind bake the shell with baking beads for 15-20 minutes. Remove the baking beads and continue baking for a further 5 minutes. Remove the shell from the oven and brush the tart with one beaten egg. Trim the overhang from the edge of the shell, leaving a clean sharp edge.

Reduce the oven to 160°C.

To make the lemon curd, beat together the eggs, cream, castor sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest in a large bowl or jug (at least 2.5L volume). Make sure the mixture is smooth and even. Pour the lemon curd in to the tart shell. There should be about 2cm gap between the curd and the pastry edge. Bake for 1 hour.

Remove the tart from the oven. Set it aside to cool. Place the tart in the fridge for at least 4-6 hours, preferably overnight.

To prepare the Italian meringue, place the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring it to boiling point.

Whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Use a kitchen thermometer and when the syrup reaches 120°C, very carefully pour the syrup down one side of the bowl into the egg whites with the beater on low speed.  Turn the beater up to medium and continue until the meringue cools to room temperature.

Use a spatula to spread the meringue across the top of the filling the 2cm gap between the curd and the pastry edge. Smooth the surface. Use a blowtorch to quickly toast the meringue surface. Place the tart in the fridge for a few hours and serve.

Burnt Sugar Cakes

Calling something burnt could be argued to be foolish, but when you burn sugar you get caramel, and that can only mean one thing – yum!

This recipe came to me when a friend generously let me read a few of her Grandmother’s cookbooks. Deep within one of the 50-year-old tomes, I discovered a recipe for a burnt sugar cake and while I was driving home that evening, I knew exactly what I wanted to do with the recipe. I tweaked it here and there, used a small tray of loaf tins rather than one large cake tin, and added a caramel sauce to give it a lick of syrupy goodness. It was on the plate and taken to the table within the hour. I think this cake gives you a terrific blend of old-school classic baking in the current era when architectural sculptures are served.

Burnt Sugar Syrup
100ml castor sugar
1 tbsp water

Place the castor sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring it to a gentle boil. Do not agitate or stir the sugar while it is melting. When the sugar has melted, turn the heat down and continue to simmer until a deep caramel colour appears. Remove it from the heat and transfer it to a small glass bowl to stop the cooking. Set it aside.

Burnt Sugar Cake
500g plain flour, sifted
300g castor sugar
160ml milk
140g unsalted butter
4 tbs burnt sugar syrup
3 eggs
3 tsp baking powder.
1 tps vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 180°C and lightly grease 10 small loaf tins (approx 4x8cm)

Cream the butter and sugar together until it is light and fluffy. Add each egg one at a time, ensuring each is well combined before adding the next, followed by the vanilla extract. Add the flour, baking powder, milk and burnt sugar syrup. When the mixture is combined, spoon small amounts into each loaf tin.

Bake in the oven for 20mins or until golden brown and a skewer comes out clean. Remove from the loaf tin and cool on a cake rack.

Caramel Sauce
100g castor sugar
50ml cream
75g unsalted butter, diced into small cubes

In small saucepan, gently melt the sugar without stirring or agitating over a medium heat. When the sugar has tuned into a deep rich caramel colour, remove it from the heat. Leave it to sit for a minute then add the cream taking care to avoid the volcanic bubbling that will erupt. Add a cube of butter and stir until it has melted and combined with the mixture. Continue to add each cube of butter until you have a luscious caramel sauce.

Serve each cake, gently warmed with a spoon or two of the warm caramel sauce.

Cinnamon and Apple Tea Cake

The term ‘teacake’ will mean different things to different people, depending on where you are in the world. If you were in the UK for example, a teacake is a yeast based bread with or without dried fruit. Whereas, in Australia, a teacake is a sponge based cake. It would seem that a teacake is unique to our Australian heritage and culture.

It is very hard to define Australian food simply because we take our influences from so many cultures. I am immensely grateful for the melting pot of cultures and cuisines that we have in Australia. It is what makes our food industry one of the best in the world. But when I look for what is uniquely ours, it is fraught with difficulty and dispute.

Few people make teacakes anymore and so there is a generation that is growing up without having tried one or even knowing what one is. And I think that is rather sad, particularly when it is uniquely Australian. There is a very comforting sense of wellbeing to have a cup of tea and piece of teacake.

Tea Cake
175g butter, softened
250g  castor sugar
3 eggs
250g plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp cinnamon
pinch of nutmeg
very small pinch of clove
pinch salt
130ml milk

Apple Topping
1 Green apple
1 tbs castor sugar
2 tbs brown sugar
Extra melted butter, optional

To prepare the apple topping, peel, core and dice the apple into 1cm cubes. Place the apple in a small saucepan with the castor sugar and gently simmer for a few minutes until the pieces are just soft with a little bit of crunch. The apple will continue to cook when it is baked with the cake. Remove the apple from the saucepan and allow it to cool.

Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a 20cm round baking tin with silicon or baking paper.

Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add each egg yolk, one at a time, continuing to beat well between each addition.

Sift the plain flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove together and add it to the mixture. Add the milk and salt and combine until the batter is smooth.

Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin. Add the semi-stewed apple to the top of the cake and sprinkle the brown sugar over the top. Bake in the over for 45 minutes. When a skewer comes from the centre of the cake clean, remove the cake from the tin and cool on a cake rake.

The cake can be served warm. Melted butter can be brushed over the top of the cake.